Written by: Alfonso Lizarraga - Regional Director Latin America, Textile Exchange
Climate change is defined by the United Nations Convention as the "change in climate, attributed directly or indirectly to human activity that alters the composition of the global atmosphere, in addition to natural climate variability observed over periods of comparable time".
The occurrence of climate change has raised concerns in many industries, particularly in agriculture, because this is where more effects will be evident. The changes in environmental temperature, on water (increased flooding and drought), will impact on microclimates, pest populations, and product yield. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) it will be difficult to plan agricultural activities, due to increased climate variability. It is assumed that biodiversity will be reduced in fragile ecosystems, such as rainforests. In addition to a changing climatic, and agro-ecological zones, an increased imbalance in food production, and greater geographical dispersion of some pests and diseases will become apparent.
Drought in Brazil
What will the impact of climate change have on the management and production of organic cotton?
It’s not known for certain. However, the temperature increase is linked effectively to the presence of a greater number of pests (boll weevil, bollworm, white flies, pink bollworm, aphids and other pests). This requires some changes in management strategies, particularly in tracking or monitoring insects. Climate change may also generate the change of zoning for planting of several varieties of cotton, to climates less "hot" and less "wet".
What are the adjustments necessary for organic cotton production to adapt to a changing climate?
Some suggestions are:
a) Identify new areas to continue production
b) Implement systems for monitoring the change of ecosystem components
c) Select varieties adapted to future environmental conditions
d) Select alternative pest management techniques which are more effective in adverse conditions.
The countries of the Latin/Central America (Brazil, Belize, Nicaragua, Paraguay and Peru) with organic cotton programs, projects or initiatives for organic cotton production, should evaluate the future context of ecosystem and the relationship of effects of climate change on other regions (Africa and Asia), in order to be making the necessary adjustments.
An interesting document for the process of adapting to climate change is by Lim B. Spanger and E. Siegfried, in 2005. Policy framework for adaptation to climate change: Developing strategies, policies and measures. UNDP. Pp. 274.
For more information on cotton production and climate change please visit: http://farmhub.textileexchange.org/learning-zone/environmental-impacts/climate-change
Espanol:
Algodón orgánico y la adaptación al cambio climático en América Latina
Alfonso Lizárraga - Director Regional América Latina, Textile Exchange
El cambio climático es definido por la Convención de las Naciones Unidas como el “cambio en el clima, atribuible directa o indirectamente a la actividad humana, que altera la composición de la atmósfera mundial y que se suma a la variabilidad climática natural observada durante períodos de tiempo comparables".
Es un hecho que su presencia ha generado inquietudes en diversos sectores productivos, especialmente en el sector de la agricultura, porque es probablemente uno de los sectores en donde más se evidenciará sus efectos. Los cambios en la temperatura ambiental, el agua (mayores precipitaciones o sequías), impactará sobre los microclimas, las poblaciones de plagas y el rendimiento. De acuerdo a la FAO será complicado planificar las actividades agrícolas, habría un aumento de la variabilidad del clima, se asumen que la diversidad biológica se vería reducida en algunos ecosistemas muy frágiles (selvas tropicales por ejemplo). Además de la modificación de las zonas climáticas y agroecológicas, incremento del desequilibrio en la producción de alimentos en algunos ecosistemas, y unan mayor dispersión geográfica de algunas plagas y enfermedades.
Cuál será el impacto del cambio climático sobre el manejo y producción de algodón orgánico?
Probablemente no se sepa a ciencia cierta, sin embargo, el incremento de la temperatura está ligado efectivamente a la presencia de un mayor número de plagas (el picudo, el gusano de la bellota, moscas blanca, gusano rosado, áfidos, entre otras plagas) lo cual requiere algunos cambios en las estrategias de manejo, principalmente en su seguimiento o monitoreo. También generará tal vez el cambio de la zonificación de siembra para algunas variedades, pasando a climas menos “calientes” y menos “lluviosos”.
Cuáles son las adaptaciones que deben hacer los programas de producción de algodón orgánico para ir adecuándose a estos cambios?
Algunas ideas son:
a) Identificar nuevas zonas para continuar con la producción
b) Implementar sistemas para el monitoreo del cambio de los componentes del ecosistema
c) Seleccionar variedades que permitan adecuase a las futuras condiciones ambientales
d) Seleccionar las alternativas de manejo de plagas más eficientes bajo condiciones adversas.
Los países de la región (Brasil, Belice, Nicaragua, Paraguay y Perú) que cuentan con programas, proyectos o iniciativas para la producción de algodón orgánico, deberá ir evaluándose el futuro contexto del ecosistema y la relación con los que afectará a los países de otras regiones (África y Asia) con la finalidad de ir haciendo los ajustes necesarios.
Un documento interesante para proceso de adaptación al cambio climático es: Lim B. & Spanger –Siegfried E. 2005. Marco de políticas de adaptación al cambio climático: Desarrollo de estrategias, políticas y medidas. PNUD. 274 pp.
Our second guest blogger, Carl Pepper, returns to the subject of organic cotton markets. Carl reveals how his business risks are reduced through direct communication, out of the box thinking, and long term business security.
Growing cotton organically has its unique set of issues that challenge us as farmers. Most know and understand the on-farm production concerns of weather, weeds, insects, equipment, and labor. I want to address the issue of market stability.
My greatest fear is to do all the right things to produce a crop and not have anyone want to buy it. This fear comes from the fact that my entire farm is rain fed. This means my yields vary widely and unpredictably. I understand that buyers and manufacturers need a steady, consistent supply to make their business run. That is the big obstacle that seems, at times, insurmountable.
The solution for my operation has come in the form of communication and trusting relationships with buyers. The start was an honest face to face meeting with the major user of our cotton, Anvil Knitwear, in which we laid the cards on the table for all to see.
They explained how they could make adjustments in programs and blends, and communicate with retailers on our behalf to keep a steady demand for a varying supply. We farmers recognized the need to communicate changing crop conditions so the customers have as much lead time as possible to adjust to supply changes. This was, to be blunt, outside the box thinking. They were willing to adapt, just like I have to do with each new weather event I face on the farm. We are farming together.
The change was a move from the "I" perspective to the "We". The obstacles facing organic cotton production can be overcome when we reach the point where we have business and personal relationships that are built on a foundation of truth and trust.
It is a great feeling knowing my buyers are up late at night watching the radar to see if it is raining on my farm. It makes me sleep better.
From the Farm,
Carl Pepper
Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Coop
We are delighted to welcome our first ‘guest blogger,’ Graham Burden, to the Farm Blog. Graham gives a Cotton Specialists perspective on the triggers behind the cotton market and how the whole value chain needs to better understand what’s required to support organic cotton production.
Cotton agriculture is a vital cash crop for many millions of farmers worldwide. The small holder farmer may grow cotton on no more than two hectares and income from cotton is an essential contributor to the livelihoods of farmers and their families.
It is these smallholder farmers and the larger farms in more developed countries that turn cotton into the largest single textile fibre and the largest non food crop commodity in the world.
As a commodity, fibre pricing is dependent on supply and demand. 2010/11 and 2011/12 has seen an extreme rise and fall in cotton prices impacting throughout the value chain from farm to retail, resulting in uncertainty in product pricing at retail and uncertainty in future planning for farmers.
As in any cyclical agricultural commodity in a rising market farmers plant more and yet a one crop per year harvest such as cotton can result in large increases in production coinciding with a decline in demand feeding straight back to lower prices for farmers.
This is the normal “way of the world.”
Those farmers, brands and retailers that have made a commitment to organic cotton have been faced with difficult decisions in these uncertain economic times, the difficult economies of Europe and USA directly impacting the farmers in the lesser developed nations.
The organic farmers and brands who have continued their commitment to organic cotton are to be congratulated. At the brand level there must be difficult decisions surrounding continued support for organic cotton, knowing that customer’s availability of income to spend on clothing has been hit hard. At the farm level it is not difficult to see that farmers could see any decline in organic cotton as a justified reason to switch to conventional cotton, if they have seen the previous financial benefits of growing organically diminish. It is hoped that organic farmers will remain committed to the cause, as it is their efforts, hopefully rewarded with a fair price that is providing “added value” through their endeavours to benefit the environment and their communities.
It is essential therefore that the entire supply chain involved in organic cotton has an understanding of the nature of cotton trade and that decisions to support organic cotton at retail is having the intended benefits – economically, socially, and environmentally at the farm level and at the same time ensuring their customers in the high street feel they are getting good value for money.
It is with this last point in mind that Textile Exchange is committed in 2012 to produce a cotton trade guide outlining the intricacies of cotton trade and providing guidance for retailers and brands to determine that the farmer groups involved in their organic programmes are receiving a fair and reasonable reward for their commitment to the environment and the social and economic benefits to their families and communities. As a member of the working group on this Guide I believe this will be an invaluable tool.
Graham Burden
Consultant at Sustainable Textile Solutions UK Ltd
Coming next, Carl Pepper gives us a West Texas Grower’s perspective of the challenges he faces as in organic cotton producer. Carls reveals the secret to his success and the recipe for a good night’s sleep!
Written by: Prabha Nagarajan - Regional Director for India, Textile Exchange
Indian Organic Cotton… Integrity Guaranteed
Prabha Nagarajan, TEs Regional Director for India, provides an excerpt from the India Section of this year’s Farm & Fiber Report, due out later this month. Prabha tells us how there have been major factors influencing the growth rationalization of organic cotton in India... Tighter regulation is one of them.
The Agricultural Produce Export Development Authority of India (APEDA) is a body of the Ministry of Commerce that has been established by the Government of India by an Act of Parliament in 1985. Many functions have been assigned to APEDA, most importantly marketing and export of agricultural products. In 2010/11 APEDA supported India with the export of 86 products to a value of $157.22 million USD. It is pertinent to note that cotton was one of India’s major exports.
Classifying organic cotton, photo courtesy bioRe India
Another critical role for APEDA is to act as the accrediting body and regulator of all third party organic certification in India. APEDA drew up the National Program for Organic Production (NPOP) which was approved in 2001 by the Ministry of Commerce and all agricultural organic production in India is certified to NPOP standards. NPOP has reciprocity with the US National Organic Program (NOP) and the European Union. APEDA has approved 22 Certification Bodies for certifying organic production in India.
Evidently then APEDA has a huge part to play in ensuring that India’s organic production at farm level is done as per the regulations laid down by the NPOP, and that the certifying bodies accredited by them carry out certification with the highest standards. In turn, the Certification Bodies ensure that the organic farming is carried out ethically by the producing groups. As Textile Exchange has always maintained, integrity is everyone’s business and cannot be assigned to just one player in the chain. Every single link in the chain is entrusted with the responsibility of working with integrity.
‘Tracenet’ is a clear example of how India’s accrediting body APEDA responded to the challenge of streamlining and bringing transparency into certification systems. Two years ago there were allegations about loopholes in the systems in India which were being exploited, and duplication of data, especially with reference to cotton. Tracenet is an online traceability system that ensures all data with reference to the certification of a product is entered and monitored, thus making for tighter regulation.
The checks and balances offered by Tracenet have helped in establishing the veracity and authenticity of data capture and have made duplication difficult or easily detectable.
Clean truck, photo courtesy Chetna Organic
Our last Farm & Fiber Report for the production year 2009/10 made mention of the introduction of Tracenet in India and changes in maximum farm group size that was being introduced in India. After ensuring training for all stakeholders, APEDA has made Tracenet mandatory since June 2010. Tracenet received its share of feedback and was lauded and criticized. However it has evidently played a huge role in rationalizing organic cotton production in India, especially in Madhya Pradesh. Our Farm and Fiber report 2010/11 will analyze the varied reasons for India’s huge drop in acreage and production of organic cotton. Though Tracenet is not the sole reason for the drop, even its most critical detractors will not deny that Tracenet stands vindicated.
Correct labeling, photo courtesy Chetna Organic
India is “Country of the Year” at Biofach 2012. One of the key messages that India wants to communicate to the rest of the world when they think of India as an organic producer, is that India is a credible sourcing country. Though India started out as a big producer of organic tea in the early nineties today the basket of export products includes a broad range of products such as the aromatic basmati, spices, medicinal herbs and nutraceuticals, horticultural products, coffee, and edible oils. Cotton continues to play a major role in organic exports accounting for about 45 percent of the total exports (NCOF). Tracenet has certainly contributed in no small way to re establishing the credibility of India’s organic cotton.
The Helvetas response to claims of child labor on organic farms can be found on their website (in German and French) and has been translated into English (available here in PDF).
The Fairtrade International response to the Bloomberg article can be read on their website here.
Please visit Textile Exchange Farm Hub Africa Region for more details on production and profiles.
By: Liesl Truscott; Director of Farm Engagement, Textile Exchange
A couple of days ago Cam Simpson, a reporter for Bloomberg News, introduced 13 year old Clarisse Kambire to the world. Clarisse’s heartbreaking story is one that could be told by many children - way too many children – residing in her home country Burkina Faso, or indeed other parts of the developing world. Clarisse’s story puts a human face to the bonded labor experienced in Burkina Faso, where over half of the population live under the poverty line and less than a third are literate. I asked TE’s Director for Africa what he thought of the Bloomberg account.
“Illegal child labor and child education are two sides of the same coin affecting children’s wellbeing in West Africa. Many non-governmental organizations (including organic and Fairtrade farming movements) and governmental and inter-governmental institutions have policies in place to combat illegal child labor. Policies on this issue are complex and have different connotations from one country to another in the West African sub region. The phenomenon is intensified in circumstances of poverty and armed conflicts, particularly with the recent armed conflict situation in the Cote d'Ivoire. Some farm workers or displaced people (including some children) may find working on a farm a temporary survival option. It is possible that an organic and Fairtrade farm in Burkina Faso can host these kinds of workers. But there are verification systems in place that are reinforced year after year to make sure children are not exploited.”
Silvere Tovignan, Director for Africa, Textile Exchange
Exploitation of children is one of the most tragic manifestations of extreme poverty and feeds the downward cycle of poverty for a country and its people. There is no doubt that Clarisse’s story deserves to be told and we need to hear her voice. For this, we can be thankful for the journalistic efforts of Cam Simpson.
But we should also be appreciative of the efforts of organisations such as Helvetas for bravely offering support on the ground to people in rural Burkina Faso through introducing farming and trading systems designed to empower people through positive discrimination (as opposed to negative discrimination) and bring about change. Growing crops organically (offering safer, cheaper, and more sustainable alternatives to chemically enhanced farming) and using internationally accepted criteria for improving labour and trade conditions is a worthy start. So far, it’s the clearest and best proven way to break the poverty cycle. And we know it works.
Last week topics such as ‘development’, ‘food security’ and ‘human rights’, were on the agenda at the 8th WTO Ministerial Conference in Geneva. One of the big breakthroughs during the conference was the adoption of a waiver to permit the preferential treatment of LDCs (least-developed countries) to promote their trade. There’s still a long way to go in terms of addressing trade in African cotton, but surely giving preferential treatment to farmers offering added value in the market through organic certification, and a tangible agenda to improve livelihoods would make a good start?
As I write, the three NGOs supporting Organic-Fairtrade cotton production in Burkina Faso: the Swiss international development agency Helvetas, their local partners the UNPCB, and the certifying organisation Fairtrade International are investigating the allegations made by Bloomberg and finding inconsistencies with Cam Simpson’s account. From early conversations, and even clues we’ve picked up in the Bloomberg video (the farm simply does not look like an organic farm), the story is not quite stacking up. As Silvere Tovignan says:
“My first observation is that there are empty mineral fertilizer bags in view, not only prohibited in organic because these bags have contained mineral fertilizer, but also because they are made from polypropylene that contaminates the cotton. Organic cotton farmers in Burkina have a specific bag for harvesting that was not the one shown in the videos.
The second is that the farm shown with a green flag is not the one where the child was harvesting. The farm with the green flag, which is supposed to be the organic one, looks greener and more exuberant (demonstrating the true organic prominent productive capacity) than the one where the harvest was going on.”
Silvere Tovignan, Director for Africa, Textile Exchange
The reason I feel these discrepancies need to tentatively be raised (and once we know for certain we will share more) is that the accusations against the very organisations driven to address issues such as illegal child labor are so incredibly damaging, and can potentially knock progress back unnecessarily by destroying brand and consumer confidence. Accusing the organisations, farmers, and brands - that are ‘trying to do the right thing’ - of allowing this to happen, and even turning a blind eye, is simply not helpful, probably not true, and certainly not ‘fair’!
As with society at large, Textile Exchange wishes for nothing more than to see measurable progress and positive impact happening on the ground, particularly in marginalised regions where improvements are needed most. We believe fairly traded organically grown cotton is delivering social and environmental benefits, and support all persons wanting to make sustainable development a reality: including farmers, brands, NGOs, governments, and consumers.
We applaud the farmers who are endeavouring to make farming fairer and ecologically sound; knowing it’s not going to be easy ‘to go against the grain’ and within a culture and history of poverty and civil unrest.
We applaud the hard work that Helvetas and the UNPCB are doing on the ground to help marginalised and poverty stricken communities build autonomous sustainable agricultural businesses, and find links to responsible markets.
We applaud brands such as Victoria’s Secret who are brave enough to connect at the farm level; wanting to make the world a better place for rural communities through positive trade agreements, and for actually knowing who their farmers are, something only a handful of companies are doing right now. Everyone else just hides behind the anonymity of the market.
And most of all we applaud the efforts and progress made through collaboration: bringing different cultures, backgrounds, ‘norms’, and expectations together on the Fairtrade organic platform is an enormous accomplishment, an enormous challenge. It’s not perfect... if it was we wouldn’t need to do what we do. I think we all acknowledge this imperfection, but we can’t let it stop us trying to make things better.
Let’s celebrate what we have achieved whilst acknowledging the length of the journey ahead... and let’s not be put off by the reality that there is always more to do.
As a ‘community’ that wants only to improve lives for children such as Clarisse, I believe Cam Simpson’s report can indeed strengthen our resolve. We have the proven structure and the systems within Fairtrade and organic; let’s make it work for Clarisse, her community, and the next generation of Burkinabe’s children.
Thank you.
The Helvetas response to claims of child labor on organic farms can be found on their website (in German and French) and has been translated into English (available here in PDF).
The Fairtrade International response to the Bloomberg article can be read on their website here.
Please visit Textile Exchange Farm Hub Africa Region for more details on production and profiles.